Guide · 7 min read
Basing miniatures
The base is the frame around every model you paint, and it's the first thing a viewer's eye settles on before it ever reaches the armor. Sand, static grass, resin scenics, and the one order-of-operations mistake that undoes a good paint job.
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Basing miniatures is the process of texturing and decorating the small disc — usually 25mm or 32mm — a model stands on, so it reads as ground rather than bare plastic. A finished base carries sand for texture, a drybrush for color, and often static grass on top. Painting competitions score it separately from the model itself.
Base sizes: 25mm vs 32mm
Most modern tabletop miniatures ship on round plastic bases in one of two common sizes. Infantry-scale models in current-edition Warhammer 40,000 and Age of Sigmar mostly stand on 32mm bases; older ranges and many skirmish games use 25mm. Getting the size wrong matters more than beginners expect — a model based too small looks cramped next to its squad, and one based too large won't fit in some movement trays or unit formations. Check the model's own rules entry, or the base size and brand comparison, before you buy bases in bulk.
The four material families
Everything on a base falls into one of four categories, and a good base usually combines two or three of them rather than relying on just one.
Sand and grit
Fine ballast or playground sand glued down with diluted PVA, then drybrushed. The cheapest option and the base layer under almost everything else — even a grassy base usually has sand under the grass.
Static grass and flock
Electrostatically-applied fibers that stand upright like real grass when tapped onto wet glue. Comes in static-charge applicator bottles or as a puffer; sold by color and fiber length.
Resin scenic bases
Pre-sculpted inserts — cracked earth, cobblestone, snow, jungle floor — that glue straight into a base and need only paint. Fastest route to a themed base, at the highest per-base cost.
Cork, rock and rubble
Broken cork bark, small stones or resin rubble bits glued down before sand, giving a base height variation so it doesn't read as perfectly flat ground.
Do it last, not first
Basing the model before painting it is the single most common beginner order-of-operations mistake. Sand and static grass get in the way of a brush working close to the feet, and any stray paint that lands on finished grass is nearly impossible to clean off without pulling the fibers out. Paint the whole miniature first, then base it as the final step. It's one of several sequencing traps covered in painting mistakes to avoid.
The one exception is texture that has to go on before priming — if you're gluing sand directly to a base that's part of the same sprue as the model's feet, do that before you prime, then paint the model and base together as one piece and add static grass right at the end.
A beginner basing method
One reliable sequence, using only sand, a drybrush and static grass:
Glue the sand
Brush diluted PVA (about 50/50 with water) onto the base rim, dip it in fine sand, and let it dry fully — at least an hour, longer in humid weather.
Prime and basecoat
Spray the base black or brown along with the miniature. Sand takes primer differently than plastic, so don't skip this step even if the rim looks coated already.
Drybrush up two shades
A light drybrush in a mid-brown, then a lighter tan or bone color catching only the raised grains, gives the sand real depth in under two minutes.
Spot-glue static grass
Dab PVA in small clumps rather than an even coat, tap on static grass, and shake off the excess. Uneven, clumped grass reads as more natural than a solid green carpet.
What a basing kit costs
Sand and static grass are shared across every model you'll ever base, so the upfront cost amortizes fast.
| Material | Typical cost | Bases covered |
|---|---|---|
| Fine ballast sand, 1 jar | $6–$9 | 150+ |
| Static grass, 1 bottle | $7–$12 | 100+ |
| Resin scenic bases, pack of 10 | $12–$20 | 10 |
| Plain plastic bases, pack of 20 | $3–$6 | 20 |
A jar of sand and a bottle of grass will base an entire army before either runs out — basing materials are one of the cheapest parts of the hobby per model.
Questions people ask about basing
Should I base a miniature before or after painting it?
After. Paint the whole model first, then add sand, texture and static grass as the last step. Basing first gets material in the way of your brush and risks ruining finished grass with stray paint.
What base size do I need — 25mm or 32mm?
Check the model's rules entry or the box. Most current infantry-scale models in Warhammer 40,000 and Age of Sigmar use 32mm; many older ranges and skirmish games use 25mm. The wrong size can affect fit in movement trays and unit formations.
How do I get static grass to stand up instead of lying flat?
Static grass needs an electrostatic applicator, or a static-charge bottle, to stand upright — sprinkling loose fibers by hand just leaves them lying flat. Dab glue in small clumps and apply with the applicator held a few inches above the base.
What's the cheapest way to base a miniature well?
Sand and a two-step drybrush costs pennies per model and looks intentional on its own — you don't need static grass or resin inserts to finish a base well. Save the pricier materials for centerpiece models.
What's the most common basing mistake beyond timing?
An even, solid layer of static grass that looks like green carpet. Real ground is patchy — leave bare sand showing between grass clumps, and vary the grass color and length across a squad rather than using one uniform mix.
See your own miniature painted before you touch a brush
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